Now when I call my friends and tell them where I’m surfing when it’s small they say they’re not going to surf with me.
When I’m out surfing and it’s small I get super into it and paddle everywhere. Don’t stop.
I’ll always have an epoxy, because they’re easy to paddle and it’s a different feeling from your normal board.
All the gnarlier guys around here who only surf in the bigger size have always said, “I love how your Dad and Uncle Derek surf all these small waves all the time and have heaps of fun. ” I’ve always grown up wanting people to be happy on me for having fun in these tiny waves.
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