What you see in the above clip came from Australian cinematographer Chris Bryan, who swims in these lineups with a camera that costs the same as a house in the Midwest and weighs as much as many of the household appliances that’d go into it.
The same could be said for the surfers, Slater and Florence and Mathews and company, whose skill, technique, and style gets lost in the speed of waves at real-time.
Right after I lost at Haleiwa, I decided that my main goal in Hawaii this year was to do well here at Sunset, and especially Pipe.
Karo was surfing his home break with some buddies one morning 14 years ago when a strange thing happened.
Read more here: Surfer Mag