The photos that really stick in my mind are the awkward moments, because they stand apart and you wonder, ‘How the hell did someone get into that position? ‘ This image of Rob at J-Bay is kind of an in-between moment, but it’s really interesting-looking.
“One of my favorite photos of all time would be the one of Tom Curren doing a cutback on a stickerless board with yellow rails.
“I just remember seeing this when I was a kid and thinking it was as good a barrel as anyone can get—so deep, on such a big wave, and it’s Tom Curren!
“In my opinion, this is the most iconic image of style ever, which is why it’s my favorite photo of all time.
“There are so many surf photos where the wave or maneuver are just crazy, or over the top, or so over-stimulating that you kind of get numb to them.
Read more here: Surfer Mag