The topic of discussion was the Australian surfer’s history of drug addiction and how the whole experience, from that always talked about “rock bottom” to genuine sobriety, shaped the man that’s now sitting just a few feet away from me in the backyard of a North Shore house.
At one point I remember turning around when I heard a bit of shuffling from behind and noticed a close friend wiping away tears. He was listening in on the conversation with Tom Carroll, and while I don’t remember what exact story Carroll was sharing with me in that moment, I vividly remember the reaction it elicited from this mutual friend.
So here we are in that backyard, digging into the highs and lows. He talks about running into an old dealer, looking in his rearview mirror, and quickly making the conscious choice to erase his phone number.
Read more here: The Inertia