The profile is what you’d expect from someone who admittedly, “[doesn’t] know much about surfing,” but respectable in that it sheds new light on the transition of John John from talented surfer to cunning competitor. “Losing even added to the myth: Some of his peers said he hadn’t won because he didn’t really want to. (The actual truth, according to John John, was very different: For a while, he was having so much trouble coping with the losses that he couldn’t win. “I had to learn how to lose,” he says.
In some sense, the article itself plays into the larger life that’s “getting bigger all the time,” as it assists in the proliferation of the story of John John Florence, well known in the insular global surf community but lesser known beyond.
Read more here: The Inertia