I love the culture, the people, the food, the level of respect that is giving amongst everyone, their passion for surfing — the list goes on and on.
It’s 60 seconds into a surfer’s cranium in flash-frame format, where we step into the realm of his everyday life and tap into what drives him.
My time with Channel Islands and working with Al [Merrick] for all those years had a huge influence on me, not only for my surfing, but for my understanding of surfboards and what makes them work.
It’s such a creative outlet. Being able to ride something that you created, and then have instant feedback on it, is the best feeling in the world.
As far as the waves go, I don’t think I’ve ever really surfed amazing waves in Japan, but it doesn’t matter to me.
I am so lucky to have spent those years of my life watching a master craftsman create my boards for me.
Read more here: Surfer Mag