A Layman’s Explanation of the Science Behind Kelly’s Wave

A Layman’s Explanation of the Science Behind Kelly’s Wave

It’s a necessary part of surfing—knowing which spot will work on a given swell; how the bathymetry affects the wave at certain tides and how the direction, size, and period of the swell will make drastic differences at each specific spot.

Science Magazine dug into exactly how Kelly Slater’s wave works, and even with a thorough explanation directed at the layman, it is impossible to not marvel at just how it’s made.

No matter what your stance is on surfing in pools, no one can deny that recreating one of Mother Nature’s most complicated phenomenons is an impressive feat of modern science.

Read more here: The Inertia

A Layman’s Explanation of the Science Behind Kelly’s Wave surf photo  A Layman’s Explanation of the Science Behind Kelly’s Wave surf photo  A Layman’s Explanation of the Science Behind Kelly’s Wave surf photo

You may also like...

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

You may use these HTML tags and attributes: <a href="" title=""> <abbr title=""> <acronym title=""> <b> <blockquote cite=""> <cite> <code> <del datetime=""> <em> <i> <q cite=""> <strike> <strong>