He set a good example for us; he worked really hard and was successful at his business, yet he made sure he had the time to pursue the things that mattered most to him, like surfing and diving.
I was in the right place at the right time when surfing and beach culture were taking off in the ’60s and I was able to benefit from that.
You need to have other things in your life besides surfing.
I spent a long time surfing contests and I took it very seriously and trained really hard–I was ready to not have to work that hard in surfing.
If you want to get into surfing bigger waves, make it a progressive thing.
Surfing is the most fun thing I do, so I go to the gym, I paddle, I mountain bike and I just try to stay active so that when there is surf, I can still paddle and get myself up off my board.
Work your way up and go to places like Hawaii to get used to surfing bigger waves.
You could break your back and not have surfing anymore, so you better have other things that bring you joy, because you never know what might come your way.
I always wanted to reflect well on the sport of surfing, so I took whatever limited amount of fame I had seriously and I tried to comport myself as best I could.
Read more here: Surfer Mag