According to Grohl, he started surfing a long time ago. “This is a long time ago, I started surfing on the East Coast, which some people don’t consider to be “surfing surfing,” he remembered. “I had a house in North Carolina on the beach, which was beautiful, man, like wild horses running around, and the water is warm, and the people are really friendly.
Then, however, on a trip out to Santa Cruz, he got in a little over his head. “Then I came out to the west coast, to Santa Cruz, where I have a bunch of friends,” he said. “I borrow someone’s board—it was someone’s father’s longboard from the 60’s—and it was 14 fucking feet long with no leash, and I just got caught inside.
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