They thrive on fear, and they’re really taking women’s big-wave surfing to a whole new realm.
Finding ways to put myself in that headspace at the gym or in the water made the feeling of pressure normal to the point where I actually started to thrive in it and I even started to seek it.
In surfing, there have been times when I felt overwhelmed by fear, or consumed by it, but I was never paralyzed by it.
In competitive surfing and in life, look at how others have done things, see what worked for them and what didn’t, but also know that what worked for them may not work for you.
It has been incredibly profound to see how much the WSL has invested in women’s surfing.
Being curious contributes to not just your success in surfing, but your overall satisfaction and happiness as a human being.
Some of the World Tour athletes today might make a mistake in a heat, but they can always correct themselves and fight their way out of a bad situation. I love seeing that.
But there’s always room for improvement and there are still some antiquated, deep-seated beliefs that sometimes hold women back in surfing.
The improvements in women’s professional surfing have been dramatic.
I’ve seen a lot of athletes in my time, both male and female, who were paralyzed in big waves, and you can tell that it’s not something that they’re naturally attracted to.
Just being in the water and enjoying my surfing is enough.
Read more here: Surfer Mag