It’s the fires at sunset, it’s those brisk, early, silent mornings when the only ones there are you and the seals. “The joy of surfing is so many things combined,” said Kelly Slater. “From the physical exertion of it to the challenge of it, to the mental side of it. ” And he’s right.
Martin goes on to speak about how surfing helped him cope with a host of issues stemming from the war and his injuries. “It’s lifted my confidence of being able to do stuff.
Having the focus of something to work on or work towards and try and be better at—it’s partly to take your mind off the situation, but also to show you that you actually are capable of doing a whole lot… I didn’t really find who I was again for—it was two-and-a-half years later that my alive day moment came—which was actually learning to surf…I’m way freer on the water than I am on land.
Read more here: The Inertia