So for me, to be with my family at the spot that I learned how to surf as a kid, where I caught my first wave that I remember clearly, it was a really special day.
In the film, we see you ride your first wave since the accident, and the look on your face kind of says it all–just that feeling of standing up on a wave again seems like such a relief and a joy for you.
In that moment, however, when asked what he thought we should title the surf movie chronicling the months leading up to his injury, and the subsequent road to recovery, he grabbed a piece of paper and wrote one word: “Relentless”.
That moment took me right back to being a kid, getting that first feeling of gliding on a wave.
Do you remember when we reached out to your family to see what you wanted to call the film, and you were still in the hospital with your jaw wired shut, but you took a piece of paper and wrote the word “Relentless” on it?
I hadn’t been in the ocean since the accident, so that was probably one of the longest stretches in my life when I wasn’t able to just go down to the beach and enjoy getting in the water.
I’m sure you remember the first time you felt that feeling, but it was like that all over again for me on that wave.
Even when I was walking out to the water, I was having these crazy flashbacks to when I was a kid and got that first wave that made me so excited about surfing.
Read more here: Surfer Mag