And recently, when he saw incoming swell about to light up Indonesia, he suddenly realized he had the freedom to book himself a ticket and shoot over to the Mentawais on a whim. Totally solo.
When professional surfers reach a certain caliber, they become like broken horses being led by the reins.
This little clip is the result of a retired pro’s return to chasing swell for its own sake.
Read more here: The Inertia