The sharkiness was enough to make the boys keep searching for other waves to surf this day. “Griffin Colapinto, Oliver Kurtz and Waggy stroll the beach during just another day on the Central Coast,” says Taras. “Sometimes you get fogged out, and on this day the fog got so thick that we weren’t able to surf, which was a bummer because the waves were really good. “A lot of people that live in Southern California suburbs tend to make the trek North not only for the surf but for the nature and the beauty of the central coast as well,” says Taras. “Here’s Tanner Gudauskas lost in the middle of it all. “This day was just magical, one of the best days I’ve seen at Rincon,” says Taras. “The surf was really good just down the beach too.
I think his jaw was probably on the floor for half the trip. “As fun as some Central California sessions can be, the walk back to the car is sometimes just as beautiful,” says Taras. “This is Waggy and a local surfer from Bonny Doon after a surf. “I’m pretty sure this is shaper Ryan Lovelace,” says Taras. “Photographer Morgan Maassen is a good friend and he and I actually shot a lot of identical photos at the same exact shutter speed at Rincon this day.
A wave like this at that spot is a rarity that can only be attributed to the combination of really good conditions. “More or less a closeout, this wave is kind of famous for Dave Nelson’s fish eye photos,” says Taras. “A lot of closed-out Central California beachbreaks have beautiful light in the morning that’s ideal for surf photography.
Here’s Nat Young chasing a rare make-able left at the spot. “This section of Andrew Molera State Park, as everyone knows, is a private break and several surfers have been arrested for surfing here,” says Taras. “If this beach ever opens up it will definitely be one of the most prized beachbreaks in California. “That left is bigger than it looks,” says Taras. “Tanner and Dane Gudauskas are checking a really sharky beachbreak south of San Francisco.
It was absolutely incredible and there was no way to get to it. “In the winter of 2011 there was that really rare high pressure system that lingered over Central California with zero wind,” says Taras. “It made for some glassy novelty waves at places that are usually blown out. “Nat Young is paddling out solo in the left-hand corner,” says Taras. “There was wind all day long until right at evening time when it glassed off beautifully and the tide got just right.
Enjoy Taras’ work below and stay tuned for the next “Liquid Portraits”. “In 2013 there was hardly any wind for the months of January and February and we were getting a ton of long period swells,” says Taras. “Central California reaped the benefits by getting a lot more glassy days than normal.
My legs were covered in the stuff and I had a reaction for about two and half months afterwards. “When shooting photos, I was always a fan of trying to establish more environmental-looking surf action shots with beautiful scenery,” says Taras. “So I shot this photo of Griffin Colapinto a little more pulled back against a Big Sur backdrop.
That’s Daly City in the foreground. “I just happened to be driving by this Central California slab when I saw Kyle Boothman and Nat Young surfing it,” says Taras. “So I pulled over and shot this little corner peak that went through unridden.
Read more here: Surfer Mag