My daughter is 15 now, I’ve been through paramedic school and made that a career since my first time out at Jaws, but that whole time I never gave up on surfing big waves.
Moller was recently inducted into the Guinness Book Of World Records for a 42-foot paddle-in that she caught at Jaws in January of 2016, and she was recognized for the achievement at this year’s Big Wave Awards.
We wanted to catch up with Moller to hear more about how she balances massive surf with her career as a paramedic and what it means to finally be recognized on the world stage for her big-wave bravado after 15 years of charging purely for the passion. First off, congrats.
I started surfing bigger waves in 2004, when my daughter was one year old, after I became good friends with Maria Souza, Laird Hamilton‘s ex-wife.
So Maria and I started doing it—I think 2005 was my first year tow surfing out there—and it was just an immediate addiction. Such an adrenaline rush.
Read more here: Surfer Mag