Deserts is really long, and it’s cool how many different looks and opportunities the same wave will give you as it goes down the point. “After this session, Charly came in saying this was one of the biggest waves he’d ever caught on his backhand. I almost missed it, too.
Recently, when he saw a purple blob steamrolling the Indian Ocean, he gave charger Nic Von Rupp a call, to see if he was available for a trip to Desert Point, a wave they’d both been to before, but had never scored on an all-time swell. “We went back and forth about it at first,” says Chachi. “Should we go, should we not go…we did that for a few days.
This wave was super tall, but it was kind of almondy, and with a fisheye it’s crazy how much smaller it looks in this photo. “Fisheye Grower, looking out.
I’m not even being dramatic. He’s that good. “From a technical standpoint, Desert’s is an ideal place to mess around with speedblurs, because the wave is so perfect and so tapered. “This is the big day at Grower.
The first person I saw take off on a wave, right as the sun came up, was Torren and he got barreled for what seemed like a mile. “Torren is so well matched with the speed of the wave, it’s f—king poetry [laughs].
It’s huge, and that’s the most critical end section at Grower, where you have to figure out if you should straighten out, jump, or pull into a closeout…f—k, there’s so much water moving right there.
Read more here: Surfer Mag