It’s a board that’s been floating around the back of my mind since I hopped on a similar sled shaped by Derrick Disney a few months ago and the thing felt carved from psychic foam, intuiting everything I wanted to do on the wave and responding accordingly. “Why don’t you just ask him to shape you one? ” said the supplier of half my genes. “That way you don’t have to reinvent the wheel.
I suspect that’s why my dad suggested that I ask Derrick Disney to shape me that 5’5″—he knows I suck at shaping, so when I say that I want to make a board, that means I’m going to be asking him to help me make a board, and it’s going to be tedious keeping me from mowing accidental concaves and asymmetries all over the place.
While shaping a surfboard is not even remotely in the same realm of difficulty as missioning to Alaska for surf, providing the world with clean water or charging mountainous waves and fighting for gender equality at the same time, it’s still some kind of challenge—for me, anyway.
This issue is about doing the hard thing, sometimes because it’s also the fun thing—like in the case of surfing, building a board, etc. —and other times because it’s the right thing.
In the pages of the magazine (which you can find here), you’ll find a photo essay from an off-the-grid mission to Alaska, where Josh Mulcoy’s truck broke down in front of what ended up being one of the most perfect waves he’s ever surfed.
Read more here: Surfer Mag