How Surf Photography Saved Nick Green’s Life

But, before it was an integral part of his style, the darkness almost killed him. “Struggling with mental health was my biggest influence to take photos,” Green continues, on a somber, personal, and very uncomfortable note. “When I was 17-years-old I threw myself in front of a moving car.

Which makes sense, considering Tasmania’s rugged coastline and raw ocean is his main subject matter. “I’m always looking out for those really dark days–the days when most people want to be at home all bundled up,” says Green. “Those are the days I’m most excited to shoot.

And now, rather than bottle up that darkness and tuck it away, he’s found a beautiful outlet to share it with the world. “After that, I started taking care of myself, speaking out and getting help, as well as finding things that gave me joy and purpose; and that’s where photography–specifically in the ocean–came in.

The Follow The Light foundation, in memory of SURFING Magazine’s famous Photo Editor, Larry “Flame” Moore, has been honoring the best young surf photographers in the world since Flame’s passing in 2005, while awarding one winner each year with a $5000 grant to kickstart their careers.

Read more here: Surfer Mag

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