Nunn provides a killer combo of mystery and action, his story full of dark themes and characters, interlaced with unique surfing descriptions that manage to sidestep cliché.
She taps effortlessly into a contemporary Australian way of life, centered in and around the sea. “He lived for this, for these moments when everything stops except your heart beating and time bends and ripples – moves past your eyes frame by frame and you feel beyond time and before time and no one can touch you. Now for an old classic.
But there’s another story unfolding simultaneously, as the wife of our surfing legend embarks on a lone search for the murderer of a local girl.
It might remind you of your granddad, if you ever happen to catch him in a small moment of quiet reflection. “… the old man thought of her as feminine and as something that gave or withheld great favours, and if she did wild or wicked things it was because she could not help them.
Breath follows the story of twelve-year-old Pikelet and his mate Loonie, as they toy with the limits of fear under the encouragement of the older Sando.
While it’s all about being gutsy, there’s another element of surfing that Winton taps into. “How strange it was to see men do something beautiful, something pointless and elegant, as though nobody saw or cared.
Favel Parrett’s Past the Shallows tells the story of three brothers living on the cold, desolate south-coast of Tassie.
Read more here: Tracks Mag