But one day I started to feel really bad at work and was taken to the hospital by ambulance to undergo immediate surgery. Two weeks later I was stuck with the same feeling in my stomach, seven surgeries and a colostomy bag in my abdomen. I spent so much time in the hospital without the capacity of eating that I lost weight and had deadly eyes from all the morphine I was receiving.
Next up I went to the North Shore, bought a van, and lived inside of that because I couldn’t afford a room to stay in. Now I was surfing Pipe and swimming with my camera every chance I had, until the next spring when it was time to move again – now it was four months in Tahiti, shooting at Teahupoo.
I’d grown up looking at photos of Pipe or Mike Stewart’s photos of Teahupoo, so on May 11th I took my one reflex camera and a cheap lens and bought a ticket to get to Puerto Escondido.
Read more here: The Inertia