Influenced equally by Matt Warshaw’s History of Surfing and Jack London’s Cruise of the Snark, I find myself romanticizing about the days that Waikiki was the center of the surf world – Waikiki’s crystal blue waters an open invitation for visitors to connect to an ancient Hawaiian tradition.
And when I ask friends that live in Honolulu their impression of Waikiki they go on about the giant hotels, the crowds of wannabe surfers colliding with one another. “It’s chaos,” they say, “absolute chaos. ” And the romantic picture begins to fade.
Read more here: The Inertia