When I went into the year, I had so many people coming from so many different angles with different advice: “You need a coach” or “If you’re going to win something, you really need to do this, and you need to do that.
It wasn’t just “I want to do a backflip, so I’ve got to find the good air wave and try it 25 times. ” Now it’s about working on boards and all the little things in between.
But Proximity isn’t just about getting talented surfers into great waves; it’s about getting into the headspace of the surfers who define our concept of great surfing.
Andy would be at a contest, like, “F–k, I don’t even want to f–king be here! ” So Brock’s like, “OK, go lose, then. ” Andy’s like, “Really? ” “Yeah, go lose your heat so we can go home. I want to go home, too. ” He was just playing this mind game on him, and then Andy would go out and smoke everybody.
It’s super frustrating, because there are some days I don’t want to surf because I’m in pain.
When I went into last year, I didn’t have a good base to my surfing.
Twenty-five years into pro surfing, I think my surfing’s better now than it was when I won my first world title. Surfing’s evolved. The boards have evolved.
KS: The way people surf now and the maneuvers that are being done, surfing is where I imagined it could be 20 years ago.
Some people really hate me because I’m always late and don’t do things I should be doing.
Read more here: Surfer Mag