AL: The first time I surfed big Jaws, I was sitting out on the north part of it, where I don’t sit anymore, and I paddled for a wave and missed it.
But with surfing, if you have this vision of the ultimate wave at Jaws, you could be waiting until you’re 30 just for the chance.
Paddling back out, I saw you dropped in on the very next wave, took a super-technical drop, almost ate shit, and made it. AL: [Laughs. ] If we kept surfing that wave, would one of us eventually end up injured? SD: One hundred percent.
It’s a 30-foot wave and at the bottom I’m diving through this giant barrel.
But Proximity isn’t just about getting talented surfers into great waves; it’s about getting into the headspace of the surfers who define our concept of great surfing.
Because the best wave I ever caught at Jaws, I had been waiting for that wave since I was a little kid.
I feel like a lot of guys out there are antsy, like, “I’ve gotta get it done right now, this winter! This swell! This is the one! ” But when you see guys that have had a long career with so many good waves over so many years, you realize you can kind of take your time.
AL: The best part was when we paddled out at Blood Eagle for the first time and realized that it was actually a wave.
Read more here: Surfer Mag