But when you have nothing to lose, a siren is that much more seductive. “When you are 25 years old with no wife or children, the decision to leave and go search for perfect waves in exotic locations is an easy one,” says Todd Lee who, in a previous life, was a native of Coolangatta, Australia. “In fact, it was the best decision I have ever made.
Each spot was a siren in their own right, but he was truly seduced when he reached the indulgent land of baguettes, brie, and barrels: Hossegor, France. “When I arrived in ’88, it was just at the end of the summer vacation period,” says Todd. “During that year, the months of September, October, and November were all time. It was a new world. Everything was new.
Read more here: Surfer Mag