Although Martyn is used to this type of thing (i. e. taking a boardbag full of twin fins to tropical locations to chase and charge overhead drainers), he’s waited years to score picture-perfect Nias.
Well, that afternoon [when it got really big], my mate who I went over with came up to me when I was chilling inside after lunch and goes, ‘What the f-ck are you doing? Get out there! ’ I poked my head out and saw these ones pinching and crumbling at the end.
I never doubted it was going to work — One of my first waves was really good, so from then on, I had a lot of faith in it.
At that point, I thought I was sort of feeling like I’ve had a good run.
Earlier this week, smooth twin-fin aficionado Torren Martyn released an edit called Ocean Motion (if you haven’t had the chance to watch it, scroll down and click play).
At that time, my mate couldn’t get his passport in time, and we got there the evening of the biggest day of the swell and we sort of missed it.
It was going to build over a couple of days, then come down and have another bump, so it looked like we were going to have another week of waves.
It’s always been one of those places I’ve wanted to go back and get proper, at a good size.
For a good chunk of it, I was riding a little 5’4″ twin fin. That’s my baby blue.
Then in May, a swell popped up, and it seemed like a good option.
Read more here: Surfer Mag